{"id":22531,"date":"2025-06-10T05:56:15","date_gmt":"2025-06-10T03:56:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.gurit.com\/la-guerre-des-etirements-lascension-la-chute-et-lheritage-dhelanca\/"},"modified":"2026-04-26T15:41:20","modified_gmt":"2026-04-26T13:41:20","slug":"la-guerre-des-etirements-lascension-la-chute-et-lheritage-dhelanca","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.gurit.com\/fr\/la-guerre-des-etirements-lascension-la-chute-et-lheritage-dhelanca\/","title":{"rendered":"La guerre des \u00e9tirements : l’ascension, la chute et l’h\u00e9ritage d’Helanca"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Guerres d’\u00e9tirement<\/span><\/span>: L’ascension, la chute et l’h\u00e9ritage d’<\/span>Helanca<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n

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L’innovation est au c\u0153ur de Gurit et de sa soci\u00e9t\u00e9 m\u00e8re d’origine, Heberlein, depuis le d\u00e9but. Le premier brevet du groupe, Helanca, est devenu un succ\u00e8s mondial et a ouvert la voie \u00e0 un avenir dans les mat\u00e9riaux de performance. <\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb2_5″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.18.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/www.gurit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/News-item-thumbnail-5.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbMiniature de l'article (5)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb66%\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_divider _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_divider][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

Avant la Seconde Guerre mondiale, le caoutchouc \u00e9tait le principal mat\u00e9riau utilis\u00e9 pour les gaines et les v\u00eatements de base des femmes. Mais l’effort de guerre exigeant de grandes quantit\u00e9s de caoutchouc \u00e0 des fins militaires, son r\u00f4le dans la mode a fortement diminu\u00e9. Les scientifiques et les innovateurs du secteur textile savaient qu’il fallait trouver une solution de remplacement – quelque chose de plus moderne, de plus polyvalent et de moins d\u00e9pendant des ressources naturelles limit\u00e9es. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Le Nylon, introduit par DuPont en 1938, est une merveille synth\u00e9tique qui a marqu\u00e9 une nouvelle \u00e8re dans la technologie des tissus. Mais avant m\u00eame cette \u00e9tape, une autre innovation prenait forme de l’autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de l’Atlantique. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb1_2,1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

La naissance d’Helanca<\/span><\/b> <\/span><\/p>\n

En 1931, Rudolph H. K\u00e4gi invente ce qui deviendra le proc\u00e9d\u00e9 Helanca, initialement appliqu\u00e9 aux fibres de viscose. Quelques ann\u00e9es plus tard, il vend les droits de fabrication \u00e0 Heberlein & Co, qui contribue au d\u00e9veloppement et \u00e0 la commercialisation du produit \u00e0 l’\u00e9chelle mondiale. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s d’intenses travaux de recherche et de d\u00e9veloppement, Heberlein (devenu Gurit-Heberlein puis Gurit) a brevet\u00e9 un proc\u00e9d\u00e9 de texturation en trois \u00e9tapes, dans lequel la fibre est torsad\u00e9e, thermofix\u00e9e puis d\u00e9torsad\u00e9e en refroidissant, qui conf\u00e8re aux fils synth\u00e9tiques un toucher naturel et \u00e9lastique.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Le r\u00e9sultat ? Un fil ondul\u00e9 et \u00e9lastique qui peut \u00eatre tiss\u00e9 seul ou m\u00e9lang\u00e9 \u00e0 d’autres fibres pour produire des tissus plus extensibles et plus confortables. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

En 1937, Heberlein a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 fabriquer le nylon et la laine extensibles Helanca, d’abord utilis\u00e9s pour les pantalons de ski, qui r\u00e9pondaient parfaitement aux exigences des v\u00eatements de sport par temps froid. Apr\u00e8s la Seconde Guerre mondiale, l’int\u00e9r\u00eat pour les tissus extensibles s’est accru et Helanca est devenu un succ\u00e8s mondial. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c0 son apog\u00e9e, le groupe Heberlein employait plus de 5 000 personnes, d\u00e9tenait des droits de licence exclusifs au niveau mondial et poss\u00e9dait ses propres machines sur mesure et sa propre division de recherche – une raret\u00e9 dans l’industrie textile \u00e0 l’\u00e9poque.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/www.gurit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2S12WEH-scaled-1.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbPublicit\u00e9 pour les collants en nylon Helanca Le Bourget 1959″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb63%\u00a0\u00bb max_width=\u00a0\u00bb64%\u00a0\u00bb module_alignment=\u00a0\u00bbcenter\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.27.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb||0px|||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

La bulle des fibres synth\u00e9tiques \u00e9clate<\/span><\/b><\/p>\n

Toutefois, \u00e0 la fin des ann\u00e9es 1960, le march\u00e9 des fibres synth\u00e9tiques \u00e9tait au bord de l’effondrement. Une crise mondiale des fibres synth\u00e9tiques s’est install\u00e9e, sous l’effet d’un ensemble de forces \u00e9conomiques, industrielles et commerciales, impliquant principalement une surproduction de fibres synth\u00e9tiques, une chute des prix et une concurrence accrue. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

La crise a d\u00e9clench\u00e9 une restructuration massive du secteur, avec des fusions, des r\u00e9ductions d’effectifs ou des fermetures compl\u00e8tes d’entreprises. Pour Heberlein, cela s’est traduit par une r\u00e9duction des activit\u00e9s et une perte progressive de la visibilit\u00e9 mondiale du nom Helanca. Bien qu’il ait surv\u00e9cu sur des march\u00e9s de niche, notamment au Br\u00e9sil o\u00f9 \u00ab\u00a0helanca\u00a0\u00bb est encore un terme g\u00e9n\u00e9rique pour les tissus extensibles, sa notori\u00e9t\u00e9 s’est estomp\u00e9e. Finalement, Heberlein a vendu la majeure partie de ses activit\u00e9s li\u00e9es \u00e0 Helanca \u00e0 Saurer en 2005, cl\u00f4turant ainsi un chapitre historique de l’innovation textile. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

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<\/span><\/b><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/b><\/p>\n

Qu’est-ce que Helanca ?<\/span><\/i><\/b> <\/span><\/p>\n

Bien qu’elle soit souvent confondue avec une fibre, l’Helanca est techniquement un proc\u00e9d\u00e9 et un nom de marque pour un type de fil. Le proc\u00e9d\u00e9 original de l’Helanca consiste \u00e0 texturer des fibres synth\u00e9tiques comme le nylon (polyamide) ou le polyester en les sertissant ou en les enroulant pour leur donner de l’\u00e9lasticit\u00e9. Le r\u00e9sultat est un fil extensible et \u00e9lastique, mais il d\u00e9pend d’une fibre de base existante – l’Helanca elle-m\u00eame n’est pas une fibre. <\/span><\/i> <\/span><\/p>\n

En revanche, le Lycra, mis au point par DuPont en 1958, est une fibre synth\u00e9tique. \u00c9galement connu sous le nom d’\u00e9lasthanne (ou spandex aux \u00c9tats-Unis et au Canada), le Lycra a \u00e9t\u00e9 cr\u00e9\u00e9 sp\u00e9cifiquement pour remplacer le caoutchouc dans les v\u00eatements. Il est fabriqu\u00e9 \u00e0 partir de polyur\u00e9thane, un type d’\u00e9lastom\u00e8re, et poss\u00e8de une \u00e9lasticit\u00e9 et une capacit\u00e9 de r\u00e9cup\u00e9ration exceptionnelles, capable de s’allonger de 5 \u00e0 8 fois sa longueur d’origine et de revenir \u00e0 sa forme initiale sans dommage. <\/span><\/i> <\/span><\/p>\n

Alors que l’Helanca est un fil obtenu par un processus, le Lycra est une fibre performante en soi.<\/span><\/i> <\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

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L’innovation est au c\u0153ur de Gurit et de sa soci\u00e9t\u00e9 m\u00e8re d’origine, Heberlein, depuis le d\u00e9but. Le premier brevet du groupe, Helanca, est devenu un succ\u00e8s mondial et a ouvert la voie \u00e0 un avenir dans les mat\u00e9riaux de performance. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":22532,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[84],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-22531","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nouvelles"],"yoast_head":"\nLa guerre des \u00e9tirements : l'ascension, la chute et l'h\u00e9ritage d'Helanca - Gurit.<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.gurit.com\/fr\/la-guerre-des-etirements-lascension-la-chute-et-lheritage-dhelanca\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"La guerre des \u00e9tirements : l'ascension, la chute et l'h\u00e9ritage d'Helanca - Gurit.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"L'innovation est au c\u0153ur de Gurit et de sa soci\u00e9t\u00e9 m\u00e8re d'origine, Heberlein, depuis le d\u00e9but. 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